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From My Notebooks In 1973: Sudan continued

January 11, 2026

After two more days as a guest of the boys’ school in Kinedra the teachers finally gave me permission (because that’s what it felt like) to continue my journey. I was confided to the care of a government official on his way to Kassala, 200 miles away, from the neighbouring village, Sedon.   Wednesday, December 12th From Kinedra in morning. Thermos flask of tea prepared. […]

From My Notebooks In 1973: Sudan

January 4, 2026

On December 5th the ferry from Aswan came ashore at Wadi Halfa or, more correctly, at a ramshackle assemblage still growing to replace the town, which now lay below the waters of the lake. I had hoped to get back on the bike but was refused permission and petrol, so I had to take the train.   With the Dutch couple I had befriended, I […]

From My Notebooks In 1973: Aswan and Lake Nasser

December 21, 2025

Thank You Very Much First of all, I want to acknowledge the response to my offer of a One-time Subscription. It has released a small flood of generosity which makes it plain that over time I have established a place in many lives. Not just through this series of travel notes, but in some cases going back through decades. Although I deliberately avoided pinning my […]

From My Notebooks In 1973: Cairo

December 14, 2025

To my readers… My quixotic notion to offer you an opportunity to reward me for the pleasure you have already enjoyed has provoked some interesting confusion. A few seem to feel it’s almost immoral. “If I’d known I was going to be asked for money I would never have started reading your pieces in the first place.” Well, nobody actually said that, but I got […]

From My Notebooks In 1973: Alexandria and Cairo

December 7, 2025

Before we get to the notebooks… Listen, I know you’ve been enjoying these notes. At various times I’ve asked for feedback, and some of you have been very articulate. I don’t have a very large email list but it’s stayed fairly steady for the three years I’ve been doing this – and of course a lot more people have been reading me through social media. […]

From My Notebooks In 1973: November

November 30, 2025

Here’s a portion of the Michelin map I used at the time: Against the odds I’ve got through to Egypt, and in Alexandria put myself though a crash course in engine repairs. But there were papers I wanted, still coming to Benghazi from the Sunday Times. The owner of the garage was going to Benghazi and said he would get them for me.   Tuesday, […]

From My Notebooks In 1973: Egypt

November 23, 2025

Despite all warnings and expectations I came through the frontier from Libya with ease. Far from being shot on sight, I was treated like royalty. A valuable lesson. When it comes to borders you never know until you get there. But now I was in Egypt, at night, totally unprepared. My Michelin map has little to offer. Sidi Barrani, Mersa Matruh, El Alamein, Alexandria – […]

From My Notebooks In 1973: Out of Libya?

November 16, 2025

We left our hero (that’s me) stewing in Benghazi, hoping to get help. My visa forbids me to enter Egypt overland. Egypt is at war with Israel. After waiting uselessly for some news from the Sunday Times, my sponsor, I decide I might as well try anyway. Meanwhile I know that between Benghazi and the frontier are famous Roman ruins, not to be missed. These […]

From My Notebooks In 1973: A Missing Chapter from Palermo to Tunis

November 9, 2025

A missing chapter. For those of you bothering to follow this series of notes chronologically I have to confess that I mistakenly left out a section of notes about the ferry from Palermo to Tunis. Because I think it was significant and reads rather well, I’m going to interrupt the story and tell it here:   On the ship between Palermo and Tunis, the second […]

From My Notebooks In 1973: Libya

November 2, 2025

On the road to Benghazi.   Wednesday, October 31st, Marsa Bregha Oil refinery and tankers. Aircraft parked in the desert. No houses. Eerie. On to Benghazi. Run dry within sight of it. Fortuitous. Two good young men. Give me petrol. Take me into Benghazi. Buy me a tankful!! Take me for coffee. Help look for elusive Sabecol. [The Sunday Times had a point of contact […]