From My Notebooks In 1976: Australia’s South Coast

Edging along the south coast towards the Nullarbor

The Rises, 3rd to 13th March

The Handbury family made us feel at home on their sheep station, and even allowed us to earn a little money doing labouring work. I learned a lot, but my most vivid memory was of watching the foreman kill and dismember a sheep. It was done with amazing speed and precision. We stayed for ten days, and I made very few notes.

Helen’s manner a trifle odd at times. Paddy the kindly, strapping younger brother. Ted Jagoe, ex-jockey, Farm hand or foreman?

Worked to make a little money, clearing sticks from paddocks under the big blue gums. Then we cleared out an oat silo together. Hard and itchy work. But had wonderful meals, lovely room.

Fishing. Red fins and one glorious salmon trout, plus a turtle.

My first catch: two redfins and a salmon trout

On Monday (a holiday) we went sailing on lake Natimuk – and went out on the trapeze on Tony Mitchell’s boat.

On the big paddocks a sheep occasionally dies, debilitated by worms.

Saturday 13th MacArthur

From The Rises, left late, 1pm, Went 70 miles in great heat, stopped at MacArthur for drink. Saw a 28lb conger eel being trailed by two boys on a stick. Looked like a long grey stocking stuffed with jelly. To park, free. Put up my gazebo of tubes for first time – works quite well, but obviously now the sheet should be made to fit it better. One of several lads came to borrow a fork.

Back later, three of them, with a carton full of beer bottles. We talked and drank, and they left a bottle for us. A little later three possums came to roam around. One was particularly tame. All lowered themselves head-first into litter bin.

Trestle bridge on south coast

Sunday 14th Port Fairey

Phillip Pilgrim & his ’52 Vincent Rapide, with the Vincent Owners Club at Port Fairey. Amazing coincidental meeting with my Melbourne mechanic friend. Carol gets to ride in a sidecar. I get advice about forks and spokes (heavy duty)

Monday 15th from Mt Gambier

Long straight roads near the coast through endless plantations of Pinus Radiatus from 196 to 1976 some being cropped now. Softwood Holdings Ltd. Crossed state line. Gained half an hour. Beach before Beachport, loads of kelp, collected spherical shells. On to Robe, past lakes (George, etc.) Swans. Theosophy centre. To Robe. Camped on beach. Fished off jetty. Caught one sprat. Ate good dinners at Robe Hotel, slept in perfect little bay, but at 3am heavy sea mist came and got us scrambling for cover. Slept on under lean-to against bike. Woke at 6, good exciting night. Dried things, breakfasted. Talked French, packed. Adjusted timing (LH plug sooty). Big moon hanging over horizon.

Tuesday 16th from Robe

From Robe to Kingston. Little but scrub and sheep. Then along north side of several dry salt lakes, the Coorong National Park, big dunes in the background, Malley trees and succulents. Wandered in over sand and salt to find big ramshackle house with derelict-looking property around it (perfect for heroin lab) but we got no further. Miles to the sea.

Ninety miles of this, then Meningie on Lake Albert. For sandwich lunch. Three ladies from Sydney returning from Adelaide Festival. V Good they said.

From Meningie to Murray Bridge, having remember that Mari gave me names there. Forgot, though, that they were the ancient man/young woman couple. (32.34.29 phone for Bill and Peggy Graton at M.B.)

Wednesday 17th Murray Bridge

A conventional house with a good well-ordered flower and veg. garden. Peggy is the librarian of Murray Bridge – 7000 volumes, about one per capita. A physically self-effacing woman, non-descript clothes, a wad of blue tissue clipped on to the left strap of her bra, but not fastidiously concealed (a mastectomy?) – busy getting things done in the kitchen before a journey to Adelaide. Like any working wife. Then Bill returns. Assume at first that he’s her father. Sparse hair almost white, but covering the crown of a well-shaped hard-tanned head. Features clean, skin clear, though much folded, slightly bowed, trousers hung high on braces – bright eyes, an easy laugh. He’s able to recount events of 25 years ago as though yesterday – but seems to have a good focus on the present. Was a dairy farmer – appears to have enjoyed much success and respect. Read and absorbed as much as possible on the subject. Built stone house (German stone mason) but insisted on concrete foundations, lintels and ties. Says super-phosphate does not leach out, though lime does, according to Rothampstead. Obviously their relationship is very good, though marriage is a convenient word for it.

Murray River water – too thin to plough, too thick to drink.

Thursday 18th to Adelaide (Addleyade?)

But first to Hahndorf – founded 1830s by a German sea-captain and his passengers. All Lutherans escaping persecution. Saw a few attempts to recover early atmosphere. Museum and art gallery in old board school. Interesting paintings by Ruth Tuck of figures, faintly obscene behind lace curtains. Relics of early settlers – lace-trimmed petticoats, baby carriages, etc. Some pottery and jewellery sold there is good. Otherwise, little to recommend.

Hilly country around Adelaide, freeway, then looking down on city and ocean beyond. Into city centre along broad streets to railway station. Had a couple of pizzas then phoned John and Judith Brine and were immediately invited to their vine covered villa on the edge of the city. Heavy polished wood, wainscoting a foot high, Immensely thick brick walls, vines screening the windows, etc.