From My Notebooks In 1973: Sudan continued

After two more days as a guest of the boys’ school in Kinedra the teachers finally gave me permission (because that’s what it felt like) to continue my journey. I was confided to the care of a government official on his way to Kassala, 200 miles away, from the neighbouring village, Sedon.

Wednesday, December 12th

From Kinedra in morning. Thermos flask of tea prepared. Headmaster’s wife has fed me throughout. Drive to Sedon. There is a Land Rover going to Kassala. Forest District Officer, Mohi el Din, needs brake fluid.

Mochi el Din, in the yellow shirt, asked me to follow his vehicle, but they drove too fast for me. They stopped until I caught up with them. I said I would go on alone. He told me of a tea house halfway to Kassala called Khor-el-fil (Crocodile’s Mouth)

Along the way I passed cattle travelling through a mirage.

I found the teahouse without difficulty, and spent some peaceful hours with tribesmen playing primitive music.

A home-made harp made with a wash basin.

A truck arrived and I wandered over to meet them, members of a tribe called Bescharyin.

When I told them I was going to Kassala they said the sand would be too soft and I should load the bike on the truck and travel with them.

Before we arrived one family got out. Behind them are the amazing mountains of Kassala.

In Kassala, Hotel Africa – 30 piastres a night for bed in room for 6. Slept on balcony. Tea boy had holes in feet. Wanted treatment. Gave him Septrin and stuff, through Egyptian teacher of chemistry. He gave me free tea.

After Kassala the route continued south-east past the huge Kashm El Girba dam to the Ethiopian frontier.